The Dead Sea

Dead Sea Shoreline (note the salt encrusted rocks)

Beautiful Sunset Overlooking the Dead Sea and Palestine Beyond

We drove through and toured the Hashemite capital of Amman. It is a sprawling city, located in rolling hills that boasts Roman ruins amongst modern buildings built of pale yellowish limestone blocks similar to those you see in the Midwest's old military forts. The city is noticeably clean and we found our way around without difficulty. We stopped to do our tourist shopping and luckily found a store that had everything from the Holy Land and the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. They really caught me off guard when the clerk proudly showed me the formally encased blown-glass bottles containing water from the River Jordan to be used for baptisms. Then he showed off the Bibles and Korans made with mother of pearl covers displayed together. We bought the necessities and then headed southwest out of Amman to the Dead Sea.

We turned onto the road which follow the curves of the Dead Sea’s coastline and went through numerous checkpoints manned by Jordanian soldiers while we viewed the scenery. We received a few quizzical looks but they were most accommodating. I am used to the checkpoint business from living in the Middle East so seeing soldiers on the East Bank are more reassuring than unnerving by far.

We watched a picture-perfect sunset, ate our boxed lunches on the shores of the historic sea, and immensely enjoyed our good fortune in just being there.

Jordanian Police

Russ with a Ceremonial Jordanian Guard at the Treasury

After rising early, ordering box lunches and eating a dual-threat, guilt-ridden Ramadan buffet breakfast (due to the fasting Muslims serving us & the amount of food eaten), Russ and I inspected the car tires and deemed them minimally passable for the day-long trek. We wound our way in a dense, cooling fog through the twisting hillside streets of Wadi Muse, the town adjacent Petra, wondering how long it had been inhabited. It had the appearance of being very old. We made our way into the mountains which run from north to south down the spine of the Hashemite Kingdom and came out into a broad valley lying next to the mountain range. There we headed north on the main four-lane route to Amman next to the Hijaz railroad that supplied the Turkish Empire's hold on Mecca and Medina and which "Lawrence of Arabia" helped attack during WWI.

Russ and I are used to driving conditions in Saudi Arabia and we usually drive as fast as the conditions allow, because of the sparse populations and the remoteness of where we live. We have actually seen signs that read “Inhabited Area.” Taking our habits from the Saudis, we rarely slow down through towns unless they’re busy and it is unsafe. Traditionally, the Saudi police rarely give tickets, but they are really cracking down lately, on orders from the King, and it is making a positive impact on the number of accidents. Still we don’t worry too much about police in Saudi Arabia. In Jordan, traffic laws are a very different stroy. We were pulled over in the first sizeable town we came to for speeding. The Jordanian policeman at the checkpoint had radar and clocked us at 110 kph in an 80 kph zone. When he saw we were “not from around these parts” he smiled as he asked us where were from. We said we live in Saudi Arabia but we were Americans and he smiled even broader as he said, “Welcome to Jordan. Please slow down and have a nice day.” We were stunned at the kindness and we began to get the feeling the phrase, “Welcome to Jordan,” had been taught to every school kid as a country slogan compulsory for graduation.

More Petra

Russ Standing in a Treasury Side Door.

This photo may give you a better idea how tall the Treasury actually stands.

Petra Sunset

After a day filled with one wonder after another I had this beautiful Ramadam sunset view to end the day. We thought really hard about touring inside Petra again the next day but both Russ and I really wanted to see the Dead Sea and visit Amman. If you ever decide to visit this wonderful ancient city, you must plans for at least a long three day weekend to get in all of Petra in.

Now That's Advertising!

Billboard just south of Amman.Wow! I'm Thirsty!

I cannot help but wonder if Stan gave his written consent for this ad!?

Where's a Hitching Post When You Need One?

Fahad showing us the beautiful strata of the rocks on our way to the 12th Crusader Fort.

Fahad tying up his donkey to guide us around.

Fahad, quit selling trinkets, tied up his donkey and became our impromptu tour guide. We asked him to guide us again the next day and I was happy to hear him decline saying he had to go to school.

The Amphitheater

The Amphitheater - Built 8 B.C. to 40 A.D.

(click on the photos and they should enlarge)

Russ, standing on the stage of the Amphitheater

Note the steps and holes in the face of the rock in the background. Also, other tourists can be seen on top of the rocks overlooking the valley.

al-Khazneh - Also Known As The Treasury

Camel Awaiting Riders at al-Khazneh (The Treasury)

When we came out into the light from the siq (remember the Indiana Jones Holy Grail movie?) there was a couple vendors and local men hawking camel rides. The only thing we were interested in was the Treasury. We were awed by the size (note the people in the entrance) and relief details. It was built as a tomb for Nabatean King Aretas in the 1st Century B.C. Just imagine yourself entering this city 2,000 years ago and seeing al-Khazneh!

Inside the Siq

Two men talking in the siq

(Note the steps going up the face on the right)

Horse and Buggy Inside the Siq

(Note the water trenches)

The Petra Crown Plaza was suggested by our friends Wayne and Natasha (he’s Canadian – She’s Russian) who had visited the hotel last year, as it is located within 100 meters directly outside the entrance to the Petra. We had driven over 1,000 miles the day before so Russ and I weren't up at the crack of dawn but the day was cooler than back in Saudi Arabia.

Thanks to Russ we rode horses down to the entrance of the siq (a natural gorge) and were awed by the colors and it's size. It is 1200 meters long and 10 feet to 30 feet wide and 300 feet high. It still has some of the existing pavement laid by the Nabateans and later the Romans. Also, down the sides are water control trenches dug in the 1st Century B.C. into each sidewall to channel water. The trenches supplemented a dam and cistern system used by the inhabitants to save water. The ancient Nabateans used the siq for a ceremonial entrance to the city.

Nowadays, saddle horses are used to go to the entrance of the siq, then horse and buggies are for going through the siq, then you can choose from a camel, donkey, or horse and buggy. We mostly walked all day but later in the day we took a donkey.

Aqaba and The Hasemite Kingdom of Jordan

Looking at the suburbs of Aqaba, Jordan in the foreground and Elat, Israel on the far hill.

We had arranged to pick up a rental in the border city of Aqaba, Jordan, as our Saudi car is not allowed outside the country. Aqaba is the gateway to Jordan from the Red Sea. You can see Saudi Arabia, Israel and Egypt from where we parked and started through the process of crossing of the international border, which is always an adventure in itself. The first snag was when the Saudi border police told us we were not allowed to walk across. While discussing our options a young Saudi guy told us we could ride with him so we loaded up our backpacks, hopped in his truck and drove across.

The young Saudi man dropped us off at the first major intersection we came to and we thanked him and I gave him one of my remaining Snap-On brand flashlights. They’re really nice and have a lifetime guarantee and I could tell he was going to get a kick out of telling all his friends some Americans crossing the border gave him a flashlight.

Our cell phones were working in Jordan (a definite plus in the Middle East) so I called my rental car contact to come and get us. We picked up our rental and drove northward through the Ramadan traffic out of Aqaba to Petra. In no time we were weaving upward through the mountains and getting nearer to Petra. We arrived at the Petra Crown Plaza around 1:00 a.m. having survived the swerving rear-end of our not-so-peppy little rental which seemed to have a mind of it’s own when steering any other way except straight ahead.

Petra I

You've Got to be Kidding! Three!

Russ and I drove to Jordan across the northern half of Saudi Arabia. I had scouted the route for the latitude/longitudes of all our planned turns and had my GPS ready for the 1700 kilometer journey. All was going well until we were about one-third of the way when we had our first blowout, then our second and finally our third. All in less than 150 miles!

We kept putting on the new spare, continuing on to the next town and then buying a new spare. “New” is relative. When you are literally an hour from the nearest town and you need a spare then you pay for what they have available. The first two tires I bought were worn and didn’t look like they’d last long. One had been removed from a back room pile after I rejected the mechanics first offer. It lasted about 60 miles before giving out. We were driving slower than normal for safety and this kept putting us further and further behind schedule. The third tire I bought was actually new and it took us the remaining distance to the border and home again.

Aladdin's Treasure - City Art in Ha'il, Saudi Arabia

Long Journey to Jordan

Just Outside Buraydah, Qassim Area, Saudi Arabia

My friend, Russ, and I had been planning a trip to Jordan to see Petra, the Dead Sea and any other sites we could find for months. We decided to drive the distance because we wanted to see as much of Saudi Arabia as we could. Having been schooled by my father since I was very young on road-trip planning I had all the bases covered. Our car was ready, except for the slightly worn tires, which I couldn’t get replaced due to official Saudi Army funding woes. I traded Russ’ car for his like-new spare so we’d at least have a good back-up just in case. Also, since it was Ramadan and restaurants wouldn’t be open during the day we’d packed food in coolers so we could eat on the journey. Our friends Wayne and Natasha had made the trip a year earlier. Over cups of tea they showed us photos, explained the route, the sites and gave us great advice on where to stay once we arrived so we felt we were ready.

Beautiful Desert Mountains and Valley On the Way to Ha'il

Where Am I Now?

This shouldn't be too difficult if you watch the news, enjoy National Geographic, or are religious. However, some people are not religious and maybe just not geographically inclined.....the people in this country are known as Hashemites and they were so nice and hosptable everywhere I visited.

Give up?

I was lucky enough to visit the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan where I enjoyed visiting Petra, Amman, and drove the entire length of the eastern shore of the Dead Sea.

On the Border

Yesterday was my second visit to the barren border crossing up at the junction of Iraq, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia. The border is very sparsely populated. It is especially so in Kuwait.

There are literally no homes until you get within about 45 miles of Kuwait City. Just about everyone in the entire country seem to live in the city or it’s suburbs. The Kuwaiti highway between the border and Kuwait City is lined on both sides and down the middle with Acacia trees. The tree’s are short and stunted; probably due to the extreme heat and dryness in this area.

The highway also has lighting all the way to the Saudi border, which at night was very nice. Once you get into Saudi Arabia the desert is a black hole. Sometimes you can see signs of civilization miles and miles ahead of you and sometimes you can see nothing at all but the road and the occaisional vehicle. The stars are simply awesome and are always worth a stop.

Close - But Not Quite

Kuwait Towers

I rented a car with a friend and went to Kuwait yesterday to see my son David before he goes north into Iraq. Unfortunately, when I got there I found out the rules for entry onto the American bases changed last month. I wasn’t allowed in despite my military ID. All I could think of was how depressed he would be. I figured he would be bummed because it would be his last chance to see one of us for awhile.

Luck was with us after all because he was worried about my safety and where I was so he called home to KS (collect!). Patricia then called my cellphone. I was really surprised to get a call at all because of the change in couuntries and cellular service, but she got through and put the phones together. David and I were able to talk to each other via a 16,000 mile round-trip connection. This in spite of being within a mile or so of each other.

After all was done it was a great day. We had a good talk and I was able to visit Kuwait. I only wish I could of actually seen him.

Kuwait City

Kuwait Towers - Signature Structures in the Country

The taller tower has restaurants on the lower "bubble" and a double-decker observation deck on the upper bubble. One of the decks rotates 360 degrees every 30 minutes.

The tower with one bubble is a one million gallon water tank and the tower with no bubble is a center that controls the lighting and other functions.

What a view from almost 400 feet (120 meters) up!

David Overseas

David at Delphi (August 2003)

I always liked this photo. David is overlooking Delphi which is an ancient town and seat of the most important Greek temple and oracle of Apollo. Alexander the Great visited in 336 B.C. to get his future "read" and the Pythian priestess acclaimed him “invincible”.

David is overseas again but not as a student-tourist this time. I plan to visit him in Kuwait where he is temporarily located serving in the Army.

Ships, Wrecks, Screws and Rudders

My Best Vanna White Pose

Growing up a Navy brat I had long known ship's screws can be quite large but I was still surprised when I first saw the ANA's rudder and screw sitting on the bottom of the Red Sea. While visiting the wreck we all had to get a photo posing by the screw (Notice the different colored edge area of the screw where diver's hands have kept the coral worn clean).

The surprising size of this wreck made you feel humbled by the power it took to sink the ship. One of the guys searched online and couldn't find any information out about the wreck so we are left to wonder under what circumstances this ship met her end.

Across Saudi Arabia

Mother Baboon Looks to Cross the Highway

Russ, Mustafa and I drove from Hafr Al-Batin to Jeddah, which is over 800 miles one-way. I've traveled quite a bit of the Eastern and Northern areas and really wanted to see more of the other parts of the country.

On the way going we drove around Medina and from the non-Muslim road we could see the Mohammed’s Great Mosque. It was already night time and the minarets were as bright as football stadium lights. If you didn’t know, non-Muslins cannot enter Mecca or Medina so there are roads that go around them for the non-Muslims.

On the way back from Jeddah we drove through Riyadh which took us through Taif. Taif is located up in the mountains and is the summer residence of the Royal family and it is supposed to be cooler up there. Just outside of Taif on the mountainous two-lane road there is a troop of baboons. The Saudis stop alongside the road to look and feed them. This mother had a right arm that was useless. We surmised she had been hit by a car at one time or another. She was doing okay when we saw her.

Wreck Dive and Eels

We dove a wreck that sat at an angle. The ship's rudder and single screw were at 110' and the bow at about 45'. While exploring, Mohaned, Malcolm and I saw a very big eel. I was barely able to catch the last half of it in a photo before he disappeared under some decking. Look in the lower left hand of the photo. All Malcolm could do was watch it go and then he quickly looked up to see if anyone else saw what he saw. We were all surprised and I was so lucky to get any photo at all.

Diving in Jeddah

Front Row (L-R) Mustafa, me, Malcolm

Back Row (L-R) Russ, Toby, Mohaned

A few friends and I took an extra day off work while everyone else is on vacation this summer and went diving in Jeddah. I hadn't seen the countryside between Hafr Al-Batin and Jeddah so Mustafa, Russ and I drove. In spite of the one-way 1300 kilometer trip we had a blast.

Drift Dive

We enjoyed a number of drift dives off Ambergris Caye with this particular dive being the last of our trip. It was a rainy morning so I called the dive shop to make sure we were still going. They said as long as we wanted to go they’d take us. We were enjoying ourselves so much we never watched a TV or listened to a radio so we failed to realize a major storm was out in the Gulf of Mexico. The seas were calmer than they had been the previous days and we were going to get wet one way or another so we went. We had an excellent time diving two sites one of which was called “Christ the Abyss” with a couple from the L.A. area.

Erina & Patricia with Saint Peter at "Christ the Abyss"

The Winnie Estelle

This is the view we had from The Blue Tang’s (our hotel) rooftop deck. The deck sets three stories high, which is the highest a building can be built on the island, so the view is excellent. The onshore breeze blew lightly in our faces and kept us cool in all weather conditions. I think Patricia and Erina preferred a nice rain so they could kick the standing water one each other.

Most mornings and evenings you could find us relaxing and enjoying one picture perfect moment after another. We'd watch islanders walking and riding by on their way to work or school. The boat taxis were hauling loads of people to and from the outlying islands. You really cannot call it a "bustling hive of activity" as the pace of life is very laid back.

The classic boat anchored in the center of the photo is the Winnie Estelle. I don't know anything of the history on the boat, but I have read an internet article, written by the owner, about it's care and the piloting required for boats down in the Belizean waters. We imagined Humphrey Bogart towing it through a jungle river while worrying about leeches!

The Winnie Estelle

Cleaning the Catch

A San Pedro fishing boat Captain Cleans a Barracuda

We walked down the beach and met a fishing boat Captain and his crew who were all very friendly. He talked to us as he was cleaning the fish and told us to just wait a little bit and his friends would come to visit. We were kind of wondering what he was talking about when sure enough here came not one but three rays to feast on fish pieces and parts. The Captain told us every evening he cleans the day's catch at the base of the pier and every evening he is visited by a number of rays who eat the free leftovers.

A Ray Cruising Above the Turtle Grass Like a Grey Ghost

Off to School

Brittany on her way to school

Anytime our friend Enes' daughter sees us she has to stop for a chat. She forgets about going to school or going home. She is such a sweet little girl.

Addis for Breakfast

Naveed Khan Baking Bread

Visiting Naveed is one of our favorite stops in the morning. One of us will stop and pick up a couple unleavened breads and a couple cups of hot addis. Addis is a thick pasty soup made from lentils which are cooked with spices and served with a little bit of cream (the fat kind - not the 2%) drizzled over the top. Please note that Naveed is one of the friendliest guys you can ever meet so don't let the sober face fool you. It is customary for people not to smile over here when they get their photo taken.

My Bread Baking in the Oven

Naveed flattens out the dough on the convex topped round thingie (the seat looking thing to the left of Naveed in the top photo) and then throws it upwards onto the inside of the oven sticking it to the side. The oven is really hot so he doesn't loiter long inside. He then watches it until it browns and pulls it off with two long rods.

To eat this breakfast, Middle Eastern style, you gather a few of your co-workers / friends and sit around in a circle on the floor. You break the bread into small pieces and use the pieces as a spoon to scoop out a bit of the addis from the bowl. Follow it down with some juice, water, tea or even pepsi and be prepared to fight off a snooze in about a half-hour!

My Favorite Fish

A Bold Yellowhead Jawfish Looks Right Back at Me

I saw two of these little 3-4" fish about a foot apart peering at me over a branch of coral. I couldn't believe my eyes so I slowly moved closer watching them the whole time. As I moved closer they would descend into a little hole. When I moved back they came back out to look at me. I surmise this one gathered I wasn't going to eat him as he stayed up while the other one descended into the sand and could not be seen.

To me, they were so beautiful and surreal they look like something out of a Star Wars movie.

Nurse Sharks Amongst Us

Patricia Descending to Depth While a Nurse Shark Cruises By

We really enjoyed the different types of dives Everett and Enes led us on. On one dive we would cover a lot of distance underwater looking for larger species. After our surface interval, we would do a slower more intensely investigative dive where we would inspect all the crannies, crags and cracks looking for the interesting little guys.

Always following with the camera, I like the slow dives better. There are so many things to see besides the big guys cruising by.

The Filipino Lady's Grave

Patricia and Erina Looking for the Grave Stone Marker and Being Followed by the Ever Present Yellowtail Snappers

We dove with Enes, Everett and Clifford at Belize Diving Adventures and the "tall tales" were as plentiful as the beautiful reef fish we enjoyed. I think Everett's best story was when he told us that a Filipino Lady had been granted her dying wish and had her ashes scattered outside the reef at her favorite dive spot. He said we would probably even be able to find the grave stone marker that had been erected in her honor some years later. Talk about hook, line and sinker! We swallowed that one bigtime. I mean, it is so beautiful, it is only common sense to think someone would want to be scattered there!

Needless to say, no matter how hard they looked, Patricia and Erina never did find the marking for the "Filipino Lady" while Everett and Clifford had a good laugh for days!

Front, Middle and Back Streets

Crusing Down Middle Street

San Pedro has three streets running North to South on the caye. The are Front Street, Middle Street and Back Street. Front Street is closest to the ocean while Back Street is closest to the lagoon, while Middle Street is well.......in the middle. Middle Street is for two-way traffic while the other two streets are one-way. We didn't figure that out until one day a guy smiled politely and told us we were going the wrong way. So we turned at the very next side street to check out the signage and he said you are STILL going the wrong way. It turns out some of the side streets are one way also. Whew! We still laugh about that one.

Elvi's Kitchen or Elvis' Kitchen??

Interior of Elvi's Kitchen - Note the Sand Floor and Tree Inside

Okay. So we're from the Midwest and not too hip on the Caribe accents so it is understandable that we kept thinking we needed to go to Elvis' not Elvi's to try the food recommended by the locals. We were initally thinking we didn't want to go to a touristy place named Elvis' Kitchen. We finally broke down and made it for lunch one day and boy were we surprised to find the photo of an older lady (Elvi herself) on the cover of the menu and not the "King." We enjoyed the food and the restaurant decor. They built the building around a tree inside and the floor is still sand, which is kind of neat. I guess they do that so the next high tide from a hurricane can just flow right on through. If you get to San Pedro we'd recommend a visit.

Happy Birthday Erina!

Smiling for the Camera and Trying Not to Get Water in Her Regulator

So my "little girl" turns 15 (July 9)! Oh my gosh I suddenly feel very old! Seriously, Erina has made me very proud to be her father. I am looking forward to many more life adventures together with her.

Scuba Certification

Patricia, Erina and Everett Performing Their Open Water Scuba Skills

We did all our scuba diving with Enes, Everett and Darryl at Belize Diving Adventures. We did two dives per day at a different spot every dive and enjoyed them all.

The Lyrical King

Erina Being Serenaded by The Lyrical King

We met The Lyrical King in downtown San Pedro and saw him about everyday. He loved to stroll down the beach with us and just chat or sing a song. He was one of the special people we met while visiting Belize.

Where to Eat?

Patricia, Erina and I Heading Down the Beach for Supper

So where do you eat in San Pedro, Belize? Oh my gosh! We tried everything and I can honestly say I never had less than a very good meal!

We ate breakfast at a corner taquerias where the lady makes the tortillas right in front of you. A couple mornings I'd get up early, grab a cup of java and amble down to test out my spanish on the ladies and bring home some breakfast burritos. Awesome.

We ate at Elvi's and didn't realize it wasn't ELVIS' until we got the menu. Elvi's was very good. We ate at Jambrel's Jerk Pit where they play loud reggae and serve spicy Jamaican fare, which is of course right up our alley. Carambas was another place we went to more than once. Ceviche was immediately served instead of chips and salsa and I had some very good grilled snapper there (see below).

Fishing Off Ambergris Caye 7th & Final Installment

Erina Posing When We Stop for Lunch with our Boat "Uprising" in the Background

Clifford, Erina and I climbed back onboard and Eric broke out the tortilla chips and ceviche, which if you haven’t tried it is kind of like a pico de gallo with a kick. It is made with fresh conch or fish, lime juice, tomatoes and onions all mixed up. We cruised a short distance to another stop where Erina and I snorkeled over a wrecked catamaran sunk years ago on elkhorn coral. We saw a small ray floating over a snow white sandy bottom and we followed it for a few meters when for no apparent reason it got spooked and flapped its little wings for all it was worth and in about three seconds it was completely out of sight. Erin and I immediately surfaced and exchanged our surprised looks at the incredible speed it had shown us.

Eric had the lunch ready to cook so we headed towards land and anchored just off shore where Clifford’s old fisherman friend lived. He and the old man cooked our catch over an open grill and then joined us at a shaded picnic bench Clifford had built for fresh fish, onion, green pepper, tomato, and potato soft tacos. We had more ceviche, pineapple, baked beans and punch on the side while we watched the old man’s dogs and a few locals stroll or ride by on the beach front.

We talked sports, how much our sons would’ve enjoyed this day, Belize and life for awhile, then watched Clifford make a scouring pad out of a coconut leaf frond. Eric used it to clean up all the utensils and pan while Clifford and I floated the cooler back out to the boat. We all loaded up for the trip back to San Pedro and Eric turned on some reggae tunes. Everyone was smiling and talking of doing it again. I was so happy Patricia and Erina enjoyed it so much. Then again, what is there not to enjoy about a day on the ocean with good people, good fishing, good food and those you love?

Fishing Off Ambergris Caye 6th Installment

Patricia and Eric Admiring One of the Many Black Snappers She Caught

At around noon Clifford asked if we wanted to continue fishing or head in and cookout and then fish some more afterwards or just keep fishing. Patricia and Erina didn’t want to stop so we kept fishing for another couple hours at another pair of high quality stops. We finally headed inside the reef where Eric dropped anchor in around 15 – 20 foot of water so Clifford, Erina and I could go snorkeling.

We jumped right in and Clifford, who had taken his spearfishing gear, shot a fish through the midsection. The fish squirmed and Erina and I were startled to see a big nurse shark appear from nowhere and quickly take it right off the rod. Clifford showed me how to find the conch and told us to let him know if we saw any big fish. I dove for the conch while Erina swam them back to the boat two at a time.

Eric, meanwhile, remained on board and made the switch from captain to cook. Patricia watched him use the ocean to clean the plywood and knife we were using to cut up the bait, he flipped the wood over and began cutting up piles of our day’s fish catch, conch, tomatoes, onions, peppers, limes and potatoes. He trimmed and then washed a ripe pineapple off in the ocean again, then sliced it and offered it to Patricia as an appetizer. Patricia thought it was so ripe, fresh, and oh-so-mouth-watering good.

Fishing Off Ambergris Caye 5th Installment

Patricia Showing Off the "Technique" She Used to Catch the Biggest and Most Fish of the Day

We moved to another “special sure-to-catch-some spot” and I switched to the front of the boat and the big rod and reel, while Patricia positioned herself aft to try her luck with Erina. Clifford put a bonefish fishhead on my hook for bait and I lowered it away. He set Patricia and Erina up for more bottom fishing all the while chattering about growing up on the sea in Belize.

Clifford told us when he turned 15 and an old fisherman took him in and taught him how and where to fish all the best “never-tell-anyone-else” spots. Not shy at all, he told us how he was basically the best four-sport athlete around and still played in weekly soccer and basketball leagues. He continually interspersed his entertaining stories with, “sink it back down Lady,” “reel it in Girl,” or “Eric, turn the boat, man.” His lively chatter was constant even though he never seemed to stop baiting hooks and removing bulging-eyed black, yellow tail and vermillion snappers Patricia and Erina were reeling up. I only got two really solid bites but lost both fish. The first one broke the 80 pound test line I was using and the second bit through my steel leader and then neatly cleaned Erina’s line too.

Patricia twice caught two fish at a time on her multiple-hook line and ended up catching the biggest and most fish of the day. Erina came in a not too distant second. I ended up last although I had the most fishing experience and was the one who pushed so hard to go fishing in the first place. I didn’t mind it one bit though. I enjoyed seeing Patricia and Erin filling the big cooler with fish and having a bunch of fun doing it.